It's bad, no doubt. This stuff is on there thick. Here's a window to what's underneath
There are no stamps other than the remnants of P proof on the grip.
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Rotor |
Polly Wana Crack Her (1903 stock) |
Lead | |
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Well this is pretty sad. It's a 1903, 2 bolt grasping groove stock that has been carefully
preserved in Polyurethane. I picked it up at a gunshow. I had heard a couple of the usual C&R bird dogs bitching about the "wrecked 03 stock"
at the corner table. I saw it a few minutes later.
It's bad, no doubt. This stuff is on there thick. Here's a window to what's underneath There are no stamps other than the remnants of P proof on the grip.
It came with a milled band retainer, Buttplate and swivel. All badly pitted.
The saving grace for this one was that under that plastic was a decent stock. Zero toe wear. No
cracks or gouges. The grasping groove had lost it's sharp edge but HEY!!!! That's no biggie. It's honest wear. So It's strip time. I like
bringing them back if I can.
I have had good luck before going slow with CitriStrip and bronze toothbrush. I'll take pics
along the way.
Stay tuned.
JR
Last Edited By: Rotor 06/05/08 01:12 PM.
Edited 1 time.
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Cabinetman |
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We'll be watching for progress. That's some thick Polyurethane on there for sure! I'll bet you'll end up with a very nice piece. You can
"resharpen" the edges of the grips with the appropriate tools, btw. There are special scrapers made just for that purpose. Most good supply houses
sell them for cheap, too.
A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.
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Rotor |
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OK I have some progress here.
Using CitriStrip in stages I just worked my way from the nose to the butt. Some heavy deposits
took a couple applications. Lifting the softened poly with a bronze bristle tooth brush was much more precise and effective on the stock contours than a
scraper. The brush is just stiff enough to get in cross bolt crevices and oddly contoured inlets. When it clogs up just rinse it out and go back at it.
Working the stock in stages allows you to have good control of the work.
After lifting the softened stripper with the brush I picked up the remaining slurry with paper towels and acetone. This quickly revealed any spots to double back over. There was layer of dust in the action inletting and barrel channel I wanted to save so I blocked that area with painters tape to leave that as undisturbed as possible. Before
Durring
Stripped
Working the butt
This was a really thick application of poly.
Grip and stamp before
After
Right rear reinforcing bolt before
After
Now comes the fun part. TOF, Dye. TOF and I'm gonna try a 1/3 mix build to finish this off. More later
JR
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Rotor |
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Well, It's done.
After getting all the Polyurethane ( and whatever was left of the old finish) off. I let it dry
for a couple of days. The stock was pretty white and the water test indicated it was not going to darken too much. Kind of the shade of amber it had under
the Poly. I really wanted to go for a dark vintage look so I brought out the Vanderhave's Mil stock dye kit. They are alcohol dyes in several shades.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=7677&st=vanderhave&s=
"Formula VII - deep
brown with strong purple overtones. Formula XII - medium brown. Formula XIII - light brown with red overtone ( This is just like the chestnut ridge
dye). Formula XIX - deep, rich brown."
I used the Formula 7 "deep brown with strong purple
overtones". This stuff is great for recreating that dark look of old O3's, Colt Thompsons and even "Black birch" M14 stocks.
While you can put the dye right on the bare wood I wimp out and
let one coat of TOF cure first. One coat is easily drunk up by the thirsty wood but I feel it gives me a little more control of the dye absorption. The dye
easily penetrates one application of TOF.
The dyes are easy to work with by partially loading up a poly
daubers and starting on one end and blending until the dauber is no longer putting down dye. To avoid dye lines in the finish I feather the edges of the
"too be finished" area with a paper towel before going back to put more dye in the dauber. You can avoid lines in the finish if you don't let
them start. Because the alcohol evaporates so fast you have a short time to blend them out while going back for more dye. My favorite aspect of working
with Alcohol dye's as opposed to oil based stains is the ability to take some out of the wood if you go to dark. Just dampen a paper towel with alcohol
and you can lift it right up.
For this stock I let the dye sit for a day at least before putting
3 more coats of TOF. I had to be gentle with the application ( hands work best) if you rub the oil in with a cloth you will lift some color. After the oil
is cured on top the color is more fixed.
Some of the spots that looked like they might be cracks were just cracks in the Polyurethane. |
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Mountain Doctor |
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Nice work! I bet a stock as nice as your finished product would go for $150+. Good save. Thanks for the pictures too.
I did the same thing, on a much smaller scale. I de-bedlinered a lower forestock for an AK. I needed one and the local store had it in the bargin bin for $5. All I have is the 'After' picture. I'm too OCD to get a 'Before' picture, I just get right to work!
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Dennis Jenkins1 |
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What is worse is that some people like the poly. I guess that means there will be no shortage of future stocks to stocks to reverse.<G>
Dennis Jenkins |
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Rotor |
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Dennis Jenkins1 wrote: I can only hope. JR
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gil |
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great save!
we all have seen,and most have bought at least one shiney riflestock. where do you find citristrip? thanks gil |
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Rotor |
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It's at most hardware stores.
I use it most often because it is relatively fume free and safe for indoors. Still need gloves though. JR |
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Cabinetman |
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Very nice save. You've shown why I suggest using dyes. You can't tell they are in the wood as they don't obscure the wood at all. And, they can
be controlled. You can apply multiple "coats" until you get the depth you want. Too deep? Simply wipe with denatured alcohol.
BTW, the "overlap" issue you encountered can also be mitigated by using some DA on a clean rag on those areas. The trick, however, is to work on long strokes so you avoid as much overlap as possible. Alcohol based dyes can do that but the amount of overlap depends on the brand of dye you use. The Behlen (Mohawk's retail brand) uses a proprietary material very similar to DA but with something in it that retards the drying of the carrier for a few extra minutes just to the overlap doesn't become an issue. Looks great! Rome
A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.
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Rotor |
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Thanks Rome. Especially for you great work on this forum. Coming here really made me start
getting serious about the techniques and materials I was using (or not using).
I sing about dye's to whomever will listen. There are still misguided souls out there
ruining what would be great stock's with finishes that were designed for house painters. though I am pretty comfortable dealing with overlap now, I will
keep an eye out for Behlen / Mohawk dye. What outlets do you see this in?
I did not attempt to sharpen the grasping grooves. It would have been too invasive for this
project.
That is the second stock I freed from the poly in a year and I am on a quest now.
JR
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Cabinetman |
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The Behlen products are available online and at Woodcraft stores everywhere. Just do a Google search for "Behlen" and you'll find the
"solarlux" dyes along with their "15 minute stain". Both are color only with the stain being much heavier and more opaque. The dyes
simply disappear.
Rome
A patriot must always be ready to defend his country against his government.
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