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My Recent Posts · (12/13/08

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Hey guys, first post here. I just bought an M39, 1942 SAKO 100% blue with new looking post-war stock and arsonal tag. Very nice looking. The wood appears to have only a light stain finish. What would be the correct finish for this rifle if I wanted to to have less of a raw wood feel. I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin. It's a nice rifle and would like a more of a finished feel without screwing it up.Thanks

My Recent Posts · (12/13/08

I'd just use BLO. You can thin it a little with mineral spirits and just apply and rub it in by hand. At least that's how I apply it. After it dries for a few days I'll buff the stock with burlap or denim, then re-coat. I'll do this until I'm happy with the "look."

Eric

My Recent Posts · (12/13/08

eb in oregon, thanks, BLO and mineral spirits mixture and reducing the amount of mineral spirits as more coats are added is how I'm going to do a laminated stock on a 10\22 I'm tricking out. I'll practice on the 10/22 whatever I decide to do to the M39. I've done a little research but haven't found much on the 'correct' finish. If it wasn't such a nice rifle, I wouldn't care as much. I have a couple of Mausers that need to be stripped and will do the BLO on also. My 91/30 will probably get shelac.

Thanks again

My Recent Posts · (12/14/08

600racer wrote:

Hey guys, first post here. I just bought an M39, 1942 SAKO 100% blue with new looking post-war stock and arsonal tag. Very nice looking. The wood appears to have only a light stain finish. What would be the correct finish for this rifle if I wanted to to have less of a raw wood feel. I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin. It's a nice rifle and would like a more of a finished feel without screwing it up.Thanks

600, You are correct, almost. However, as Pahtu has correctly noted, it's BLO, not tung oil(sorry for the slip, was not paying close attention)which is the original stock finish for a war time stock. Most all of the Finn M39 post war stocks that I've seen are dry in finish, and tend to crack after some use. That is why I prefer my M39 rifles to have war time stocks, as this three part finish is weather proof, and time proof, as far as my experience has proven/seen. The three part mixture is even parts of all three materials, that is then let to harden/solidify, and then applied, rubbed on, as a paste. Hope this helps, and best of luck in your endeavor! Let us know how it all turns out.
Michael

My Recent Posts · (12/14/08

"I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin."

The 1/3's mix is Beeswax, Turpentine & Linseed oil. I have used this mix(I made up a batch - A little makes alot...) on my dry stocks & it works well. It does not darken the stock like the war time Finn stocks look.

Pahtu.

My Recent Posts · (12/14/08

Pahtu wrote:
"I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin."

The 1/3's mix is Beeswax, Turpentine & Linseed oil. I have used this mix(I made up a batch - A little makes alot...) on my dry stocks & it works well. It does not darken the stock like the war time Finn stocks look.

Pahtu.

Pahtu, I've collected all the ingredients for the mixture, but don't have one of the dried out stocks to actually use it on. I know there are different varieties of turpentine, and maybe it's how the turpentine is distilled, pure gum? It seems to me that I recall some discussion on this before, regarding the different types of turpentine. Thanks for catching my previous slip

.
Michael

My Recent Posts · (12/14/08

600racer wrote:

Hey guys, first post here. I just bought an M39, 1942 SAKO 100% blue with new looking post-war stock and arsonal tag. Very nice looking. The wood appears to have only a light stain finish. What would be the correct finish for this rifle if I wanted to to have less of a raw wood feel. I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin. It's a nice rifle and would like a more of a finished feel without screwing it up.Thanks

600, Here is the answer to your question, and also as to why Pahtu's stock wasn't dark enough. This is the reply from CH(he's Finnish) over on another board regarding what type turpentine the Finns used in their war time 1/3 mixture,...

"Finn turpentine is a by-product in pinetar distillation. It's pretty much as dark as PT itself but is more fluid. Post-war stocks were treated with a substance named Kiväärintukkiöljy (=rifle stock oil) made by Tikkurila Oy and this stuff is light and goes deep into the wood grain."

__________________
Antti

My Recent Posts · (12/15/08

I found the 1/3 paste in the cleaning forum for sale at http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com/Products.html. Now I have to decide whether to do a few coats of BLO first. I could stand to be a little darker but not a dark as an Isreali Mauser I have. Looks like it was soaked in used motor oil. Got an RC Mauser that I want to strip and refinish and a MN 91/30 that will probably need just a good cleaning. May try the 1/3 paste on my 1917 Enfield. It needs the scope zero'd. Then there are the pistols........ This C&R license is going to break me. lol. Anyone want to by a used sport bike. Needs a little body work. Wow, looks like I got a theme going here. Now if I could just find that website about scout scopes I thought I bookmarked.

My Recent Posts · (12/16/08

harris hawk, I never stopped to look at which type of turpentine it was - I just saw some turpentine for sale at the local hardware store & used it in my mix - It worked well..

Many collectors do not want to use the 1/3 mix finish on their stocks - They would rather prefer to leave them alone...Some will use some type of furniture polish. or furniture wax. If the wood is dry, I see no problems with using such things for a dry stock - However a potential buyer of the gun sometime down the line, should probably informed that something was used on the stock - It might make a buyer change his mind.

Pahtu.

My Recent Posts · (12/16/08

I have never used the Supposed Finn mix on any stocks. That is not to say it was not proper just I really prefer keeping my stocks as found other than a bit of Balistol after cleaning they get little else. Balistol is almost 99% mineral oil as ths MSDS sheets available for it will tell you. I doubt BLO is proper for any Finnish stocks but as Americans we seem to love to slather it on rifle stocks. I keep some in the shop but have never liked the outcome of using it unless it may be on a Garand or something like that. Post war Finnish stocks are indeed very dry and have lasted many years in that condition without cracking so I doubt our penchant for having to put something on them is necessary or proper. Indeed they do crack but usually from many other causes than being dry. The fit and effect of it when these rifles are fired is usually the culprit in my opinion of Finn stock cracking. Most times as we all seem to advertise when we sell these rifles the cracking has little effect on the soundness of the stock but is merely an non-favorable effect of being shot and fitted to the action in a way the stock is abused by the action. I fear cracking when these old rifles are fired but the real area that I fear unrepairable damage is the insides of the stock where the recoil lug is based and the thin areas that separate the trigger and mag well. The only way I know to repair these areas is cross drilling and pinning which one sees very rarely in the Finn repairs. My thought there is the Finn's knew this was a death knell for a stock and threw the offending stocks away. Many of the old time collectors did and do little to any Finn finishes and I find that to be the real answer for care and authenticity and thus value in any type of antique rifles. Oil never hurts but the way it is applied and the fervor it is applied with can do damage to value is usually the undoing of a well meaning owner. Bill

My Recent Posts · (12/16/08

Howard's Bee's Wax Furniture Polish works well and doen't seem to change the color. It smells good too.

My Recent Posts · (12/16/08

I reckon I'll just go with Finn mix just because the stock feels so dry. Feels like a kiln dried spruce 2x4. At least it would be correct IF it wasn't a post war stock and I do plan on shooting it and don't want it to crack. What's worse, a crack or a semi-incorrect finish? I doubt it'll be sold for years and by then it may not matter.

My Recent Posts · (12/16/08

The Finn's doubted it would be sold and look at the proper way they kept it! The thought that wood requires oil is just something that we dream up as owners. You said it yourself it feels like Kiln dried wood, why do we dry it? To make it more durable and last longer and to keep it from warping in humidity. Keep it clean and dry away from humidity and it is fine. May not look as pleasing to you as a well oiled or polished piece of wood but it will work and last great. We do the same things with leather as wood and it has the same effect. Make yourself feel better and oil or polish ths heck out of it. Frankly I do too! Still only helps our minds and not really the wood. He he! Crazy Huh? Bill

My Recent Posts · (12/16/08

Pahtu wrote:
harris hawk, I never stopped to look at which type of turpentine it was - I just saw some turpentine for sale at the local hardware store & used it in my mix - It worked well..

Many collectors do not want to use the 1/3 mix finish on their stocks - They would rather prefer to leave them alone...Some will use some type of furniture polish. or furniture wax. If the wood is dry, I see no problems with using such things for a dry stock - However a potential buyer of the gun sometime down the line, should probably informed that something was used on the stock - It might make a buyer change his mind.

Pahtu.

I also try very hard to maintain the original finish/color of the wood on all of my milsurps. I was in no way advocating putting anything on these rifles. I was just answering the question regarding the composition of the 1/3 Finn mixture, that 600 had initially posed. For some reason I've had this urge to try the 1/3 mix on an old stock that had been stripped completely of any finish, and was not good for anything else, except experimentation, just to satisfy this primal urge. I guess it's probably the idea that if, God forbid, something was to ever happen to the finish on one of my babies, I'd at least be able to competently touch it up with the original type finish.
Michael

My Recent Posts · (12/17/08

Didn't mean to accuse you I was just pointing out the humanity part that seems to come into play here and we are all subject to that! I get those urges too. I think laziness might be my best defense in this case! Hehe! Bill

My Recent Posts · (12/17/08

I think I hear what ya'll are saying hawk and Bill and that is do nothing. I understand that completely. It's a perfect matching numbers rifle. My concern is that it will now be going from a controlled temp and humidity environment, taken to a rifle range routinely in the extreme humidities and temps we have in Mississippi and shot. Is whatever that was applied to the stock way back when still enough protection from the elements it will now be subject to? I don't plan on letting it get rained on, but if I take it out and shoot it in the summer, it's definately going to get sweated on and/or in high humidities. I want to do the right thing for it to retain as much of it's value as possible and still enjoy shooting it. It would seem that would include trying to keep the wood stable. If the 60 year old finish will do that I'm fine with leaving it as is, but if it needs additional protection, I would like to use something that is reasonably historicaly accurate.

My Recent Posts · (12/17/08

600 - Most of my rifles, I have used nothing more than just a wipe down to clean off the dust. A couple of my M91's have that weak Finn stain on the stock & the stock felt dry, so I used the 1/3's mix on it & nothing bad was the result

I also bought a Finn M91 stock that was unknown to me, cut down. The stock came from an outfit in Arizona - It was dusty from being stored for a long time & felt really dry to the touch(I have no doubt from being exposed to a hot environment). I used the 1/3's mix on the stock & now you can't tell the difference from my other Finn stocks- I just happened to have a M27 barreled action & have now fitted the action to the stock. I'll post pic's some day

"I also try very hard to maintain the original finish/color of the wood on all of my milsurps. I was in no way advocating putting anything on these rifles. I was just answering the question regarding the composition of the 1/3 Finn mixture, that 600 had initially posed. For some reason I've had this urge to try the 1/3 mix on an old stock that had been stripped completely of any finish, and was not good for anything else, except experimentation, just to satisfy this primal urge. I guess it's probably the idea that if, God forbid, something was to ever happen to the finish on one of my babies, I'd at least be able to competently touch it up with the original type finish.
Michael"

Oh, sure, I understand. I mean't nothing more than some collectors are really picky about the finish on the rifles they collect. The 1/3's mix is a decent finish to use on a dry stock - Really the finish has varied on M39 rifles through the years of production & the various depots they were assembled & stored. I am not much of a Finn finish expert, but i have read a little...

Pahtu.

My Recent Posts · (12/17/08

600, I've used lemon oil(Formby's for me)on many of my natural oil finish wood stocks for years now, with NO adverse affects. The lemon oil cleans, and replenishes the natural wood oils that were once in the wood. Best of all it doesn't change the color of the wood, like BLO, or tung oil, and is super easy to use. I wipe them down every month, and it makes them REALLY perk up, and look soooo sweet! Now, as Pahtu has stated, some collectors may frown on this, but I see nothing wrong with it at all. As for the post war stocks cracking, it could be a combination of factors. Such as the wood drying out after it was fitted to the action many years before hand, then being fired many years later with a dried out stock, and you have a perfectly good recepe for a cracked stock. Merely speculation upon my part. It just seems that there are many stories, and examples of these post war stocks being cracked. Absolutely, no poly, blo, or tung oil if it were my rifle.
Michael

My Recent Posts · (12/18/08

I'm definately going to stay away from any poly, blo or any other oil that would change the color. I'll save those for the 10/22 tack driver I'm building. Hawk hit the nail on the head in that I'm affraid I will crack the stock if I start shooting it. Not that shooting it initself would cause a crack but rather the stock would now be subject to varing humidities. In my mind a sealer, for lack of a better term, would be in order and the 1\3 mix sounds like the best answer. I've ordered 2 recipes of the mix from thegunstockdoctor.com, a white and natural. The white is supposed to leave the wood near the current color while the natural would bring out some of the grain. I may get a piece with the same finish to see what happens or see what happens on an area inside the stock. Heck for $120 I can get a complete unfinished post war stock I could do to with what I want. To fulfill the primal urge. lol. Nothing will be done for a while so purist opinions are still wanted and will definately be considered. Do I dare say that I will be shooting corosive ammo? Cleaning promptly of course.

Thanks a ton for all opinions.

Merry Christmas all.

My Recent Posts · (12/18/08

Don't be the slightest bit concerned with shooting corrosive ammo in these old warhorses. After all, that is what they were designed for in the first place. Simply spend an extra 30 seconds or a minute at the range after shooting for corrosive cleaning and you don't have anything to worry about. For me, that involves simply a water jug filled with water, and maybe a bit of detergent or Windex mixed in that is poured down the bore and wiped on all metal parts that are exposed to powder gasses when fired, like any bayonets that may have been extended (M44) and the bolt face. Then I take an old bore snake and pull thru the bore a couple times to dry the water so it does not rust and head for home.

Unfortunately, I have seen way too many guys try to treat their milsurps correctly after shooting corrosive ammo, but they forget the bayonet and as a result, you end up seeing nice rifles with rusted bayonets.
Curt

My Recent Posts · (12/18/08

Curt, I've been shooting corrosive since I got my C&R license a couple of years ago and have several thousand rounds in various calibers right now. A little windex to start things off is the ticket. A friend of mine saw someone post that if you're going to shoot corrosive you might as well bury your rifle in the back yard. I have 2 pistols and 3 rifles I know have had nothing but corrosive ammo shot in them and all have great bores. You just have to leave time at the end of the day to make sure you clean you weapon like your supposed to.

Merry Christmas

Kevin

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Author	Comment
600racer	Proper M39 Finish	Lead	[-]
Posts: 1 (12/13/08 08:48 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Tags : None Hey guys, first post here. I just bought an M39, 1942 SAKO 100% blue with new looking post-war stock and arsonal tag. Very nice looking. The wood appears to have only a light stain finish. What would be the correct finish for this rifle if I wanted to to have less of a raw wood feel. I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin. It's a nice rifle and would like a more of a finished feel without screwing it up.Thanks
eb in oregon		#1	[-]
Posts: 448 (12/13/08 09:03 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I'd just use BLO. You can thin it a little with mineral spirits and just apply and rub it in by hand. At least that's how I apply it. After it dries for a few days I'll buff the stock with burlap or denim, then re-coat. I'll do this until I'm happy with the "look." Eric "We must all hang together, or most assuredly we shall all hang separately." Benjamin Franklin, July 4 1776
600racer		#2	[-]
Posts: 2 (12/13/08 10:08 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	eb in oregon, thanks, BLO and mineral spirits mixture and reducing the amount of mineral spirits as more coats are added is how I'm going to do a laminated stock on a 10\22 I'm tricking out. I'll practice on the 10/22 whatever I decide to do to the M39. I've done a little research but haven't found much on the 'correct' finish. If it wasn't such a nice rifle, I wouldn't care as much. I have a couple of Mausers that need to be stripped and will do the BLO on also. My 91/30 will probably get shelac. Thanks again
harris hawk		#3	[-]
Posts: 142 (12/14/08 12:14 AM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	600racer wrote: Hey guys, first post here. I just bought an M39, 1942 SAKO 100% blue with new looking post-war stock and arsonal tag. Very nice looking. The wood appears to have only a light stain finish. What would be the correct finish for this rifle if I wanted to to have less of a raw wood feel. I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin. It's a nice rifle and would like a more of a finished feel without screwing it up.Thanks 600, You are correct, almost. However, as Pahtu has correctly noted, it's BLO, not tung oil(sorry for the slip, was not paying close attention)which is the original stock finish for a war time stock. Most all of the Finn M39 post war stocks that I've seen are dry in finish, and tend to crack after some use. That is why I prefer my M39 rifles to have war time stocks, as this three part finish is weather proof, and time proof, as far as my experience has proven/seen. The three part mixture is even parts of all three materials, that is then let to harden/solidify, and then applied, rubbed on, as a paste. Hope this helps, and best of luck in your endeavor! Let us know how it all turns out. Michael Last Edited By: harris hawk 12/14/08 05:57 AM. Edited 2 times.
Pahtu		#4	[-]
Posts: 2158 (12/14/08 04:10 AM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	"I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin." The 1/3's mix is Beeswax, Turpentine & Linseed oil. I have used this mix(I made up a batch - A little makes alot...) on my dry stocks & it works well. It does not darken the stock like the war time Finn stocks look. Pahtu.
harris hawk		#5	[-]
Posts: 143 (12/14/08 06:12 AM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Pahtu wrote: "I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin." The 1/3's mix is Beeswax, Turpentine & Linseed oil. I have used this mix(I made up a batch - A little makes alot...) on my dry stocks & it works well. It does not darken the stock like the war time Finn stocks look. Pahtu. Pahtu, I've collected all the ingredients for the mixture, but don't have one of the dried out stocks to actually use it on. I know there are different varieties of turpentine, and maybe it's how the turpentine is distilled, pure gum? It seems to me that I recall some discussion on this before, regarding the different types of turpentine. Thanks for catching my previous slip. Michael
harris hawk		#6	[-]
Posts: 146 (12/14/08 07:22 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	600racer wrote: Hey guys, first post here. I just bought an M39, 1942 SAKO 100% blue with new looking post-war stock and arsonal tag. Very nice looking. The wood appears to have only a light stain finish. What would be the correct finish for this rifle if I wanted to to have less of a raw wood feel. I've read something about a paste made of beeswax, tung oil and turpentin. It's a nice rifle and would like a more of a finished feel without screwing it up.Thanks 600, Here is the answer to your question, and also as to why Pahtu's stock wasn't dark enough. This is the reply from CH(he's Finnish) over on another board regarding what type turpentine the Finns used in their war time 1/3 mixture,... "Finn turpentine is a by-product in pinetar distillation. It's pretty much as dark as PT itself but is more fluid. Post-war stocks were treated with a substance named Kiväärintukkiöljy (=rifle stock oil) made by Tikkurila Oy and this stuff is light and goes deep into the wood grain." __________________ Antti
600racer		#7	[-]
Posts: 4 (12/15/08 10:29 PM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I found the 1/3 paste in the cleaning forum for sale at http://www.thegunstockdoctor.com/Products.html. Now I have to decide whether to do a few coats of BLO first. I could stand to be a little darker but not a dark as an Isreali Mauser I have. Looks like it was soaked in used motor oil. Got an RC Mauser that I want to strip and refinish and a MN 91/30 that will probably need just a good cleaning. May try the 1/3 paste on my 1917 Enfield. It needs the scope zero'd. Then there are the pistols........ This C&R license is going to break me. lol. Anyone want to by a used sport bike. Needs a little body work. Wow, looks like I got a theme going here. Now if I could just find that website about scout scopes I thought I bookmarked.
Pahtu		#8	[-]
Posts: 2159 (12/16/08 01:30 AM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	harris hawk, I never stopped to look at which type of turpentine it was - I just saw some turpentine for sale at the local hardware store & used it in my mix - It worked well.. Many collectors do not want to use the 1/3 mix finish on their stocks - They would rather prefer to leave them alone...Some will use some type of furniture polish. or furniture wax. If the wood is dry, I see no problems with using such things for a dry stock - However a potential buyer of the gun sometime down the line, should probably informed that something was used on the stock - It might make a buyer change his mind. Pahtu.
zeebill		#9	[-]
Posts: 3378 (12/16/08 02:27 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I have never used the Supposed Finn mix on any stocks. That is not to say it was not proper just I really prefer keeping my stocks as found other than a bit of Balistol after cleaning they get little else. Balistol is almost 99% mineral oil as ths MSDS sheets available for it will tell you. I doubt BLO is proper for any Finnish stocks but as Americans we seem to love to slather it on rifle stocks. I keep some in the shop but have never liked the outcome of using it unless it may be on a Garand or something like that. Post war Finnish stocks are indeed very dry and have lasted many years in that condition without cracking so I doubt our penchant for having to put something on them is necessary or proper. Indeed they do crack but usually from many other causes than being dry. The fit and effect of it when these rifles are fired is usually the culprit in my opinion of Finn stock cracking. Most times as we all seem to advertise when we sell these rifles the cracking has little effect on the soundness of the stock but is merely an non-favorable effect of being shot and fitted to the action in a way the stock is abused by the action. I fear cracking when these old rifles are fired but the real area that I fear unrepairable damage is the insides of the stock where the recoil lug is based and the thin areas that separate the trigger and mag well. The only way I know to repair these areas is cross drilling and pinning which one sees very rarely in the Finn repairs. My thought there is the Finn's knew this was a death knell for a stock and threw the offending stocks away. Many of the old time collectors did and do little to any Finn finishes and I find that to be the real answer for care and authenticity and thus value in any type of antique rifles. Oil never hurts but the way it is applied and the fervor it is applied with can do damage to value is usually the undoing of a well meaning owner. Bill
dangson		#10	[-]
Posts: 329 (12/16/08 08:17 AM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Howard's Bee's Wax Furniture Polish works well and doen't seem to change the color. It smells good too.
600racer		#11	[-]
Posts: 6 (12/16/08 09:46 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I reckon I'll just go with Finn mix just because the stock feels so dry. Feels like a kiln dried spruce 2x4. At least it would be correct IF it wasn't a post war stock and I do plan on shooting it and don't want it to crack. What's worse, a crack or a semi-incorrect finish? I doubt it'll be sold for years and by then it may not matter.
zeebill		#12	[-]
Posts: 3384 (12/16/08 10:02 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	The Finn's doubted it would be sold and look at the proper way they kept it! The thought that wood requires oil is just something that we dream up as owners. You said it yourself it feels like Kiln dried wood, why do we dry it? To make it more durable and last longer and to keep it from warping in humidity. Keep it clean and dry away from humidity and it is fine. May not look as pleasing to you as a well oiled or polished piece of wood but it will work and last great. We do the same things with leather as wood and it has the same effect. Make yourself feel better and oil or polish ths heck out of it. Frankly I do too! Still only helps our minds and not really the wood. He he! Crazy Huh? Bill
harris hawk		#13	[-]
Posts: 147 (12/16/08 08:17 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Pahtu wrote: harris hawk, I never stopped to look at which type of turpentine it was - I just saw some turpentine for sale at the local hardware store & used it in my mix - It worked well.. Many collectors do not want to use the 1/3 mix finish on their stocks - They would rather prefer to leave them alone...Some will use some type of furniture polish. or furniture wax. If the wood is dry, I see no problems with using such things for a dry stock - However a potential buyer of the gun sometime down the line, should probably informed that something was used on the stock - It might make a buyer change his mind. Pahtu. I also try very hard to maintain the original finish/color of the wood on all of my milsurps. I was in no way advocating putting anything on these rifles. I was just answering the question regarding the composition of the 1/3 Finn mixture, that 600 had initially posed. For some reason I've had this urge to try the 1/3 mix on an old stock that had been stripped completely of any finish, and was not good for anything else, except experimentation, just to satisfy this primal urge. I guess it's probably the idea that if, God forbid, something was to ever happen to the finish on one of my babies, I'd at least be able to competently touch it up with the original type finish. Michael
zeebill		#14	[-]
Posts: 3386 (12/17/08 08:23 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Didn't mean to accuse you I was just pointing out the humanity part that seems to come into play here and we are all subject to that! I get those urges too. I think laziness might be my best defense in this case! Hehe! Bill
600racer		#15	[-]
Posts: 7 (12/17/08 11:51 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I think I hear what ya'll are saying hawk and Bill and that is do nothing. I understand that completely. It's a perfect matching numbers rifle. My concern is that it will now be going from a controlled temp and humidity environment, taken to a rifle range routinely in the extreme humidities and temps we have in Mississippi and shot. Is whatever that was applied to the stock way back when still enough protection from the elements it will now be subject to? I don't plan on letting it get rained on, but if I take it out and shoot it in the summer, it's definately going to get sweated on and/or in high humidities. I want to do the right thing for it to retain as much of it's value as possible and still enjoy shooting it. It would seem that would include trying to keep the wood stable. If the 60 year old finish will do that I'm fine with leaving it as is, but if it needs additional protection, I would like to use something that is reasonably historicaly accurate.
Pahtu		#16	[-]
Posts: 2162 (12/17/08 08:16 PM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	600 - Most of my rifles, I have used nothing more than just a wipe down to clean off the dust. A couple of my M91's have that weak Finn stain on the stock & the stock felt dry, so I used the 1/3's mix on it & nothing bad was the result I also bought a Finn M91 stock that was unknown to me, cut down. The stock came from an outfit in Arizona - It was dusty from being stored for a long time & felt really dry to the touch(I have no doubt from being exposed to a hot environment). I used the 1/3's mix on the stock & now you can't tell the difference from my other Finn stocks- I just happened to have a M27 barreled action & have now fitted the action to the stock. I'll post pic's some day "I also try very hard to maintain the original finish/color of the wood on all of my milsurps. I was in no way advocating putting anything on these rifles. I was just answering the question regarding the composition of the 1/3 Finn mixture, that 600 had initially posed. For some reason I've had this urge to try the 1/3 mix on an old stock that had been stripped completely of any finish, and was not good for anything else, except experimentation, just to satisfy this primal urge. I guess it's probably the idea that if, God forbid, something was to ever happen to the finish on one of my babies, I'd at least be able to competently touch it up with the original type finish. Michael" Oh, sure, I understand. I mean't nothing more than some collectors are really picky about the finish on the rifles they collect. The 1/3's mix is a decent finish to use on a dry stock - Really the finish has varied on M39 rifles through the years of production & the various depots they were assembled & stored. I am not much of a Finn finish expert, but i have read a little... Pahtu.
harris hawk		#17	[-]
Posts: 148 (12/17/08 09:05 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	600, I've used lemon oil(Formby's for me)on many of my natural oil finish wood stocks for years now, with NO adverse affects. The lemon oil cleans, and replenishes the natural wood oils that were once in the wood. Best of all it doesn't change the color of the wood, like BLO, or tung oil, and is super easy to use. I wipe them down every month, and it makes them REALLY perk up, and look soooo sweet! Now, as Pahtu has stated, some collectors may frown on this, but I see nothing wrong with it at all. As for the post war stocks cracking, it could be a combination of factors. Such as the wood drying out after it was fitted to the action many years before hand, then being fired many years later with a dried out stock, and you have a perfectly good recepe for a cracked stock. Merely speculation upon my part. It just seems that there are many stories, and examples of these post war stocks being cracked. Absolutely, no poly, blo, or tung oil if it were my rifle. Michael
600racer		#18	[-]
Posts: 8 (12/18/08 08:07 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I'm definately going to stay away from any poly, blo or any other oil that would change the color. I'll save those for the 10/22 tack driver I'm building. Hawk hit the nail on the head in that I'm affraid I will crack the stock if I start shooting it. Not that shooting it initself would cause a crack but rather the stock would now be subject to varing humidities. In my mind a sealer, for lack of a better term, would be in order and the 1\3 mix sounds like the best answer. I've ordered 2 recipes of the mix from thegunstockdoctor.com, a white and natural. The white is supposed to leave the wood near the current color while the natural would bring out some of the grain. I may get a piece with the same finish to see what happens or see what happens on an area inside the stock. Heck for $120 I can get a complete unfinished post war stock I could do to with what I want. To fulfill the primal urge. lol. Nothing will be done for a while so purist opinions are still wanted and will definately be considered. Do I dare say that I will be shooting corosive ammo? Cleaning promptly of course. Thanks a ton for all opinions. Merry Christmas all.
m1 talker		#19	[-]
Posts: 6319 (12/18/08 08:14 AM) Veteran member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Don't be the slightest bit concerned with shooting corrosive ammo in these old warhorses. After all, that is what they were designed for in the first place. Simply spend an extra 30 seconds or a minute at the range after shooting for corrosive cleaning and you don't have anything to worry about. For me, that involves simply a water jug filled with water, and maybe a bit of detergent or Windex mixed in that is poured down the bore and wiped on all metal parts that are exposed to powder gasses when fired, like any bayonets that may have been extended (M44) and the bolt face. Then I take an old bore snake and pull thru the bore a couple times to dry the water so it does not rust and head for home. Unfortunately, I have seen way too many guys try to treat their milsurps correctly after shooting corrosive ammo, but they forget the bayonet and as a result, you end up seeing nice rifles with rusted bayonets. Curt
600racer		#20	[-]
Posts: 9 (12/18/08 09:11 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Curt, I've been shooting corrosive since I got my C&R license a couple of years ago and have several thousand rounds in various calibers right now. A little windex to start things off is the ticket. A friend of mine saw someone post that if you're going to shoot corrosive you might as well bury your rifle in the back yard. I have 2 pistols and 3 rifles I know have had nothing but corrosive ammo shot in them and all have great bores. You just have to leave time at the end of the day to make sure you clean you weapon like your supposed to. Merry Christmas Kevin

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