How do you pick arrows for a recurve?

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WVchuck	How do you pick arrows for a recurve?	Lead	[-]
Posts: 12337 (08/05/09 05:41 AM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Tags : None In regard to size is my question. 27" draw length and 40lb bow. What arrows should be used. I know carbons are based on weight range, but what about aluminum? I googled around a little and got more confused than I was when I first started looking. Any input would be appreciated as I'm trying to get my youngest set up with a bow, without having to go to a bow shop and ask for help to set up a bow I didn't buy from them, which would be in poor taste to do something like that, IMO.
WVchuck		#1	[-]
Posts: 12339 (08/05/09 06:21 PM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I just picked up 6 carbon arrows that were rated from 30 to 50 pound bows this afternoon. We'll try those to start with and see if they work or not. Actually, we'll try one repeatedly and see if it does, then assume the rest will or wont. If they don't, we'll return the unused ones back to the store for an exchange or refund.
reddogge		#2	[-]
Posts: 4934 (08/06/09 08:32 AM) Host Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Chuck, recurves shoot a slightly stiffer arrow due to being close to center shot and shot with fingers. Therefore I usually add about 5-10lbs to the spine of the arrows and they seem to fly well although these days I make and shoot cedar arrows. Here is a spine calculator from Easton which should help. Just remember to put in his actual draw weight and arrow length. http://www.eastonarchery.com/products/selection Here's another series of charts for old fiberglass shafts and then aluminum. This one recommends at his draw an 1814 shaft. http://tradgang.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=002522 I don't know squat about carbon as I'm just not a carbon guy. Don't hesitate to contact me if you're having trouble getting good arrows or good arrow flight. It's something I know. "What happened? What the HELL happened?" Jake Holman "The Sandpebbles" Last Edited By: reddogge 08/06/09 08:34 AM. Edited 1 times.
WVchuck		#3	[-]
Posts: 12343 (08/06/09 09:05 PM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	We got the bow assembled this evening after a lot of work....I assumed it was going to be as simple as bolting the limbs onto the riser...boywas I wrong. They had the inserts/bushings out of the riser and those had to be installed, : exactly to get things lined up for the limb bolts. After about an hour of fussing and fitting, I got them in. Then had to take a break to read up on how to string a recurve. It's been years. The carbon shafts hit the target pretty hard, actually went more than halfway through the foam block at 25 yards with field tips. I grabbed a 30" 2117 shaft just to see what would hapen and it shot as good, or better than the 30" carbons did. He shot it several times, and is doing OK with pulling back, holding, then releasing. I've got him using a trigger release. Any tips for actually hitting the target shooting without sights, or do I need to get some sights set up on the bow?
reddogge		#4	[-]
Posts: 4935 (08/07/09 08:28 AM) Host Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Most, if not all recurve shooters today use fingers, either a glove or tab and I'd urge him to shoot that way. They also shoot them without sights and sight by gap shooting or instinctive shooting or a combination of the two. Gap shooting is using the point of the arrow as an aiming point and there will be a gap between the target and the point when you are at full draw. This gap is larger closer to the target and smaller farther away and the gaps must be learned. Instinctive shooting is pulling the arrow back and concentrating on the target only and the brain calculates how to hold for any given yardage. Both systems take lots of practice. One technique used more frequently today is to shoot 3 fingers under as opposed to split finger. You put all 3 fingers under the arrow nock and anchor fairly high with the middle finger in the corner of mouth. You are basically gun barreling down the shaft and beginners and new archers find it easier to pull off. We cant the bow slightly to get our eyes over the arrow so it flys where we look. Shooting without sights is very rewarding but takes times and practice to develope the skills needed to hunt deer. Start close to the target (10) yards and work your way back to 20 yards. I'm teaching my 3 grandsons how to shoot this way (instinctive) and they picked it up very quickly. It's amazing how you don't have to show kids a lot and they just do it. Go here to see some good books on shooting a bow. http://www.3riversarchery.com/Books+DVD%2527s+Shooting_c42_s18_p92_thumb.html I would recommend first "Shooting the Stickbow" by Anthony Camera as it gives you everything you want to know about recurves, setting up the bow, tuning the bow, shooting, etc. and is written by a skilled target archer and coach. "What happened? What the HELL happened?" Jake Holman "The Sandpebbles"
WVchuck		#5	[-]
Posts: 12346 (08/07/09 08:28 PM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Thanks for the help/input/suggestions. I had him come in and read through your post. He did much better this evening than yesterday. Like all things, it's going to take practice. I shot it a little bit too, I can put all the arrows into the foam block at 25 & 30 yards, some in the "kill" zone but with most just in the block. I'm going to continue with him using the release instead of a tab for now, at least until I can determine if that may be a contributing factor regarding the arrow release/accuracy. I have been shooting it with fingers, no tab, no glove....After about 6-8 arrows, my fingers are sore. One more question, should the string be removed when not in use, or is it OK to keep it strung when it's going to be shot daily? It took me a few minutes yesterday to get familiar with stringing a recurve again, but it's like a bicycle....except I've not fallen off of it and tore my elbows and knees all to pieces.... I'm sorely tempted to order the 50lb version for my own use. I really want to get back to basic archery again. If anything, as a thumbing of the nose toward the $900 uni-cam hi-tech gizmos that are out there now. I'm still using an old High Country Safari set up to 70lbs. It's old, out of date and low tech compared to the new offerings out there, but I am too familiar with it and know what it can do and not do if I do my part. I need to find some 2213's to replace the lost and damaged arrows from the past few seasons. Aluminum shafts are getting hard to find locally, everyone is going with the carbon arrows in their shop inventory and special ordering aluminums. We'll ferret out a bow shop and see what's for sale and try to pick up a finger tab for him to try out too. Thanks again for the help!!!
reddogge		#6	[-]
Posts: 4937 (08/08/09 10:45 PM) Host Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Any modern recurve is OK to keep strung indefinitely but I unstring mine everyday to eliminate an accident like a stranger picking it up and dry firing it or a kid getting ahold of it. Buy a good bow stringer like a Selway from 3 Rivers Archery. Never use the step through method or you will eventually twist the limbs and the push pull method is asking to lose an eye. I'd check on Epay for a good old 60s/ 70s era Red Wing Hunter or Bear Kodiak Hunter. The older bows are great and don't break the bank. Shooting without sights takes practice and skill and must be worked at constantly to get better. Sometimes the wrong arrow or poor tuning can sabotage your best efforts. When you shoot fingers whether your use a glove or tab most nowadays use what's known as a "deep hook". Lay the string in the first joint of the three fingers and sort of point them back away from the target in a hook like hold. Tension on the back will effect the release and it proves to be a better more consistent release due to less tension on the fingers and hand. Ask any questions you have as I find it fun to talk about it. "What happened? What the HELL happened?" Jake Holman "The Sandpebbles"
WVchuck		#7	[-]
Posts: 12347 (08/09/09 06:02 AM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I've used the step through twice now with it, once to get it all set up, then had to take it back off to do something else with the set up, then back on again....I'll look into a stringer. The string had to be twisted a little, the first time I got it on the limbs, I forgot to put twists/turns in it to get the right distance from the back of the grip to the string. I had an old Ben Pearson and shot it quite a bit, but it was left handed & 60lbs if I'm remembering correctly, it was one you didn't want to try to hold back on for very long. I'm not left handed, but for $50 for a like new bow, I couldn't say no at the time! I did sell it off several years ago for what I had in it to someone that was.
WVchuck		#8	[-]
Posts: 12350 (08/09/09 05:55 PM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Fun stuff!! I looked up your bow stringer and a few others and sat down with an old suede leather shoe and made my own stringer!! It works too!! I unstrung, then restrung the bow with it and had no issues at all. Used the tongue of the shoe for the pocket that slips over the end with the string and used the sides for the adjustable/movable piece to get the unstrung end on the bow. The stitching isn't pretty, but it is solid. Also used a piece of heavier than paracord rope, but is very similar to paracord to connect the two pieced together.
reddogge		#9	[-]
Posts: 4938 (08/10/09 03:03 PM) Host Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Neat stuff there. I make a lot of my stuff too. I've made the following: bow raising and lowering rope with a hook, bow hanger, cedar shaft straightener, spine tester, alcohol lamp to put points on, arrow stand to build arrows, accessory pouch. You will never twist a limb again with that stringer. You may want to visit www.tradgang.com like I do every day now. Before you know it you will be hooked. "What happened? What the HELL happened?" Jake Holman "The Sandpebbles"
trautert		#10	[-]
Posts: 5321 (08/10/09 03:09 PM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Okay, I think it's time to let Chuck in on the real secret of how to pick arrow shafts. Promise to keep a secret, Chuck? Eeny, Meeny, Miny, Moe........ Tom Ne Desit Virtus Rakkasans
WVchuck		#11	[-]
Posts: 12357 (08/10/09 04:21 PM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I was referring to the weight/stiffness/length, etc. Not actually doing the eeny meeny!! I'm still on the hunt for some 2213-XX-75's in a 30" length with the adjustable nock and plastic vanes and insert installed....for my High Country. I need to figure out what else I can make at home for his recurve. Are limb tip protectors necessary, or just an extra for added safety? I've got some shoe leather left over and am thinking about that next....then a shooting glove. I'll probably do that one store bought rather than cut out the fingers in his work gloves.
WVchuck		#12	[-]
Posts: 12359 (08/10/09 07:49 PM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Neat site too!!! Thanks!!!! My oldest son got out his bow this evening in between thunderstorms and put many arrows in the kill zone of the target. He's a natural archer.
nothernug		#13	[-]
Posts: 11554 (11/22/09 03:59 AM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Hey Chck. Here's an excellent forum (at least I think so) for traditional archery. http://www.archerytalk.com/vb/forumdisplay.php?f=5 There are many more archery forums on the site too but this one is the most orientated for what we're discussing. A gent there "Viper 1" has a book printed on the subject that is apparently very well thought of. I intend to get it just haven't gotten around too it. I shoot aluminum arrows simply because I started with them and for now am content with them. One thing I did was simply buy 3 or four arrows of this spine/length and some of that until by trial and error, lots of that, brought things down where I wanted them. Charts don't always agree because I settled on 2016s for my 62" 45# recurve when most charts would call for 1816s. But with my bow those shot high and right. I also practice frequently. I have a target set up across the barn and keep a cheap fiberglass bow strung all the time. Many times I go to the barn I'll just pick it up and shoot a few flights. I don't guess it hurts that the target is in a gloomy low light corner so to speak, either. I also use finger release. It has built a pretty bulky callus on one of my fingers so I reckon I should use a tab. Diplomacy is the art of saying nice doggie until you can find a rock. Will Rogers
reddogge		#14	[-]
Posts: 4964 (11/22/09 10:31 AM) Host Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Anthony Camera's (Viper) book "Shooting the Stickbow" is an excellent book. I've been involved with archery since a kid in 1955 and I still learned a lot of stuff from it. It will debunk many myths and untruths and teach you anything you need to know about stickbows, arrows, shooting technique. "What happened? What the HELL happened?" Jake Holman "The Sandpebbles"