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Back in Production, New and Improved
Darrell's Scout Mount Page & Forum
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catklan4 |
cad technik scope mount |
Lead | |
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has anyone tried one of these cad technik scope mount ? I thought it might be nifty for my no4 mk1. supposed to be no gunsmithing required.
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Badger2Tony |
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Yes, the old version (serial # 00096) on a #5 Enfield. Use loc-tight on everything, if they still use plastic washers, replace with metal from the get go. I
found out they go from loose to looser when they get cold. You can't remove the bolt without taking off the top 1/2 which will have to be loc-tightened.
People have suggested using teflon tape on the coarse theaded bolts which hold the 1/2's together, but I haven't tried it yet. If not snug, the rail
moves up and down and the bolts quickly get loose. I also have to crank on them with a channel lock.
The Weaver rail can go on two ways. The most secure arrangement works best with a compact scope. I recently put on a regular scope and had to reverse the rail to get proper eye relief. I find the rail poking out so far forward looks and feels kind of flimsy, but it does work. The wippy recoil of my #5 likes to break cheap scopes, a #4 will probably work better. ONLY TWO screws hold the mount (bottom 1/2) to the receiver! Use loc-tight or they will get loose! This part can stay on without interfering with cleaning. As my only no-smith receiver mount, I'd give it a "C" Hope that helps, Tony
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catklan4 |
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do you suppose it would leave markings on the metal ( where it would clamp or bolt on ) when it the mount is removed? my gun is in pretty nice shape, I guess
my concern would be the scrathing or maring of the metal where to mount attaches.
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A square 10 |
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ive had two mounted overthe years , i didnt have that problem but i supose it possible to leave a mark , i found the mount quite acceptable and functional , id
buy another if i were wanting to scope a no4 or 5
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Kierlup |
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Also consider the S&K mount. Once set up, mine remains rock-solid, and you can remove the bolt. I also have it on a No.4.
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BurgieC |
S&K no drill scope mounts for No.4 | ||
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burgie |
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catklan4 |
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looks like you remove your rear sights and it goes right in it's place? I went to their website to look at them but the link for installation was not
working .
Last Edited By: catklan4
11/30/09 05:29 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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BurgieC |
S&K scope mount | ||
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P.S.: This is a photo from the web, poster not known, my cell photos are crap or I would take one of my own set up. Burgie
Last Edited By: BurgieC
12/01/09 12:04 PM.
Edited 1 times.
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Ed Novak |
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How does the mount secure to the charger bridge?
NRA Endowment member
LECS #2 |
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BurgieC |
How does the mount secure to the charger bridge? | ||
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Thanks Ed, I forgot the little block with a drilled and tapped hole that a screw fits down into from the top of the scope mount to hold it in place. You can see the hole in the photo from my first post. 66 years old and sometimes have crs!
burgie |
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Ed Novak |
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Thanks Burgie.
NRA Endowment member
LECS #2 |
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Kierlup |
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Depending on the condition of the charger bridge, you may have to use a shim between the top of the bridge and the mount (especially if being mounted on
something where the top of the bridge may be worn, or has been polished). I found that I couldn't get enough adjustment from the scope when trying to zero,
so I put the scope optics back to the centre position, and then used shims of different thicknesses until I found one that brought the vertical p.o.i. as close
to zero as I could, and then used the scope optics for the fine adjustment.
An alternative is to use epoxy to build up the small area on the underside of the mount where it contacts the bridge, and then take it down a bit at a time until you can come quite close to your desired p.o.i. at the range you want, and then use the scope optics to final zero. These methods leave you a LOT of room to adjust elevation from that point. After you have the scope mounted, before shimming, start CLOSE to your first target, or use a big target. I found at 25 yd. before shimming, the first round was almost 30" low, and the first shim put me almost 30" high. After that it was easy to measure the thickness, go half that, and "Bob's your uncle!" Works well and holds its zero. Peter |
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Ed Novak |
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I like the shimming idea. How about some of that metal tape with its own adhesive backing?
NRA Endowment member
LECS #2 |
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61henry |
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I've had a cad teknik mount on one of my No4 Mk1s for several years now and love it, never had a problem.
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moose fat |
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My 1942 BSA Maltby, No.4 Mk1, two groove barrel, Century parts gun, non-matching, with Cad-Technik:
The cheek rest is from Numrich/e-gunparts, very nice. The rings are Leuopold QRW (low) and the scope is a Weaver Classic V 1-3 X 28mm Not as svelte as a real No4 T. The hardest part was rasping the cheek piece to fit the stock. |
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JAYFMT |
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I also have one and love it. If you have the simple combat sight as on moose fat's rifle you can remove the bolt without having to take the scope off. My
rifle has the older target style sight so I have to remove mine. I took a Dremel with a thin cutting wheel and put marks on the 2 sides and bottom of the 2
pieces and filled them with a white lacquered marker. Now when I remove the top half and replace it I have index marks to line it up by.
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