Adjusting the front sight on a 24/47 ?

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clement1234	Adjusting the front sight on a 24/47 ?	Lead	[-]
Posts: 61 (02/05/10 07:57 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Tags : None I picked up a 24/47 from Samco (a very beautiful rifle) and took it out to our range today. It shot very well with dead on elevation at 50 yards but my windage was about 2 to 3 inches to the left. Since there is no windage elevation adjustment on the rear sight I was wondering if there is a trick to adjusting the front sight without taking off the hood. I've heard the removal and replacement of the hood is a bear. Just wondering what the experts do in this situation. I'll try to post up some pics of my target. Any help would be appreciated. CC
CDR Xfire		#1	[-]
Posts: 81 (02/06/10 12:38 AM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I recommend that you remove the hood and leave it off. This is the original military sight adjuster. I bought it at Numerich several years ago for about 50 bucks. It works on several Mausers in addition to the Yugo, so it was well worth it to me. Then there is the two dollar improvised version, made from an inexpensive C-clamp. Resp'y, Bob S. USN Distinguished Marksman No. O-067
WVchuck		#2	[-]
Posts: 12955 (02/06/10 08:52 AM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Wouldn't you have to get a left handed C clamp to move it from left to right? That's a neat factory sight adjuster in the first picture. I can't ever seem to find stuff like that when I'm out looking around for goodies.
nothernug		#3	[-]
Posts: 11666 (02/06/10 09:47 AM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Ye olde Sks sight tool... (I see I need to make a new photo. Still, for now you get the picture.) Diplomacy is the art of saying nice doggie until you can find a rock. Will Rogers
clement1234		#4	[-]
Posts: 62 (02/06/10 11:28 AM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Well after reading a bit more about the front sight hoods, I found that mine is a simple tension-style with the lower inner curved lips neatly fitting into grooves on either side of the front site base. It was fairly easy to remove by using a reverse tension needle nose pliers expanding the hood outward using leather strips on all bearing surfaces as to not damage the finish. After that I found (that’s right Nothernug, thanks!) that my SKS front site adjustment tool fits very nicely around the front sight post and allowed me to drift the post to the left enough to hopefully make a difference. I then replaced the sight hood without much trouble except for one nice pinch to my thumb which is par for the course and the usual price I pay for cheap innovation. The next “project” may be to clean the trigger group…the trigger seems fairly good with no gritty pull and it drops on a very predictable tension each time, but I have not looked to see if it is caked with Cosmoline…Now the question is, and I think I already know the answer, do I have to take the entire rifle apart to get to the trigger group…I am always afraid of damaging wood or metal when I do this. I took apart the bolt completely and found it to be caked with cosmo, and I cleaned it completely…I don’t know what to think about this trigger, as it seemed like many other milsurp rifles only smoother. I’m trying to put some pics up to show the rifle…(old news now to most I am sure)…One good thing, the ammo I bought 5 years ago - Century Arms Yugo 8mm - I paid $45 for 900 rounds - those days are long gone, but I’ve got enough ammo to shoot for a while… Last Edited By: clement1234 02/08/10 05:31 PM. Edited 1 times.
5whiskey		#5	[-]
Posts: 7 (02/07/10 09:12 AM) Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Wow, and I've been doing things the hard way. Shoot group. Not off by much, just a hair, but want it perfect. Drift the post with hammer and brass punch. Oops, way too much. Back the other way. Rinse and repeat for about an hour, and mine was sighted in. Looks like the sks sight tool (or improvised c-clamp) would take about 55 minutes off of that process :embarresed:
nothernug		#6	[-]
Posts: 11669 (02/07/10 09:53 AM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Think we can reduce the picture size just a bit? The next “project” may be to clean the trigger group…the trigger seems fairly good with no gritty pull and it drops on a very predictable tension each time, but I have not looked to see if it is caked with Cosmoline…Now the question is, and I think I already know the answer, do I have to take the entire rifle apart to get to the trigger group…I am always afraid of damaging wood or metal when I do this. I took apart the bolt completely and found it to be caked with cosmo, and I cleaned it completely…I don’t know what to think about this trigger, as it seemed like many other milsurp rifles only smoother. You may expect the trigger group to need cleaned. The Yugos slathered the stuff inside and out. And yes, you will have to separate the barreled action from the stock to properly clean it. When you get them apart you will most likely be rather glad you did! One of the joys of collecting milsurps is that they will readily excuse the occaissional bump or scratch. These are tougher than your average Remchester. So don't let the thought of a little scratch deter you from a proper and thorough cleaning of your weapon! Diplomacy is the art of saying nice doggie until you can find a rock. Will Rogers
clement1234		#7	[-]
Posts: 63 (02/07/10 01:44 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	Hahaha...sorry about the picture size...I am a clutz with photoshop, etc, but I should be able to get it down. I will probably take this one apart this week some time to get to the trigger group. I was also wondering what kind of wood this rifle is made from, and is it is solid wood stock or is it an oil resistant laminated wood similar to a German K98?
nothernug		#8	[-]
Posts: 11672 (02/08/10 11:25 AM) Forum Site Moderator Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	The Yugos did not make any laminated stocks. Walnut stocks were original to the M1924- 24/47 rifles. What you have there is a later replacement stock made of elm. It is made generally to M48 spec and will be thicker and heavier than the original walnut stocks. These elm stocks are also what Mitchell's and others tried to pass off as 'teak.' The Yugos didn't make any teak stocks for Mauser rifles.* * I have to qualify this statement. The Yugos did produce teak stocks for an unspecified African nation. It was a limited order for M59 sks rifles and the teak was supplied by the African nation that placed the order. In all probability, it was for a palace or personal guard type unit. Diplomacy is the art of saying nice doggie until you can find a rock. Will Rogers
clement1234		#9	[-]
Posts: 64 (02/08/10 05:14 PM) active member Reply Quote More My Recent Posts	I saw a Mitchell stock on a 24/47 last week, fellow had it right next to me. It was completely sanded down, with the serial number all but gone. The T number had been eradicated. It was very sad looking next to my rifle and a few folks commented as such. This replacement stock is like new, and fits and looks well although it does not match the all matching numbers on the rifle itself. That matters not in the least to me. I have given the stock a nice rub down with a beeswax wood preserver (Howard Feed-N-Wax) and the stock looks beautiful. Last Edited By: clement1234 02/08/10 05:32 PM. Edited 1 times.