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| Author | Comment | ||
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GLCasazza |
CETME??? |
Lead | |
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What should I look for when checking a CETME. Do the mags from a H & K work in these? The CETME mags I've seen have a slight curve to them. Thanks
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falm16 |
Re: CETME??? | ||
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most do, even if you have to file just a hair off the locking ridges.... don't know the real name. every once in a while one won't. check bolt for being ground, take it apart if it's new and clean till you're sure it is spotless, oil well, grease the rollers, shoot and inspect the brass if you can find them. they will have dark ridges from powder in the flutes. use surplus ammo.
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WVchuck |
Re: CETME??? | ||
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Some CETME's love the G-3 mags better than they like their CETME Mags.
Both should work with equal aplomb. I haven't got to use that word in a long time!! Check the bolt gap, look for a ground bolt, make sure the cocking piece is firm, but not too stiff/gritty feeling when you work the action. Make sure the front & rear sights are in line with each other and not all cock-eyed from front to rear and left to right. For really specific info, go to gunboards and check out their CETME forum, especially the thumb-tacked stuff at the top of the forum page. Dang, falm replied while I was typing this.... |
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skywarp989 |
Re: CETME??? | ||
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I miss miss my CETME.
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GLCasazza |
Re: CETME??? | ||
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Thanks to all for their response. If my luck runs true to form
(can't find a GOOD m/n Finn or Swede m96) it'll be some time before i find one. Thanks again |
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kidao35 |
Early CETMEs the best | ||
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General concensus is the early ones are the best, esp. those using the cast stainless steel receiver. They look pretty nice too.
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ThePitbullofLove |
Re: Early CETMEs the best | ||
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I don't miss mine...much.
It was a good shooter, but I was never 100% confident in it's construction or reliability, as a Century construct. It felt "fragile" in an odd way. Once I got FAL's and M1A's, the CETME became a distant memory. If it were me, I'd look at spending an extra $150 and buying a PTR-91 over a CETME. Much better constructed, and almost HK quality. I do plan on picking one up...soon |
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WVchuck |
Re: Early CETMEs the best | ||
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Have the CETME's gone up that much? Or have the PTR's dropped that much....LOL
If I had to choose between the Century L1A1 and the Century CETME, I'd be hard pressed to pick a favorite, they both have their own special qualities. |
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thegundude |
Re: Early CETMEs the best | ||
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The attractive thing about the CETME was the fact that you could pick one up for $300. That's no longer true (much).
When I have to choose between another CETME, FAL or L1A1 in the future, I'll probably go for an FAL or L1A1. Not that I don't like my CETME, not at all. But I'm not paying $450 for one either... Just my own personal opinion... Steve
Live Free Or Die. |
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24ksports |
Re: Early CETMEs the best | ||
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I love my CETME, quite a soft-shooting gun. Would like a nice FAL as well since they balance so nicely, kind'a like a leggy woman.
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Eric in OH |
Cetme | ||
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As billfrombyron noted already, the first thing to look at is the bolt and bolt carrier from the bottom through the empty mag well. Making sure it's unloaded and following all safety rules, of course, cock the rifle and look underneath. The bolt head should be snugged against the bolt carrier. When I first got mine I fired it and I had a single shot CETME, having to pull back the charging handle every time. That was with 5 different mags still to the same end result. I saw in the field that the bolt would not fully close in recoil on the next round - it left a 1/4 inch gap between the bolt and bolt carrier, and also between the bolt face and the chamber, so nothing would happen when I pulled the trigger.
I brought it home and completely dismantled it twice, cleaning every part I could find. I didn't realize this needed a complete detail cleaning first due to all the metal shavings you will find throughout a "new" CETME. I mean, I did wipe it out and gave it a good once-over, but nothing like I found I needed to. Even after this I still had the gap. I spoke with a gunsmith acquaintance of mine who agreed with my thought that something was pinching the bolt head or bolt carrier and preventing it from closing. I dismantled it again, and marked the receiver rails that carry the bolt mechanism with a black marker, then reassembled the rifle and worked the bolt manually about 30 times. I dismantled again, and sure enough I found where the bolt carrier was rubbing against a rail. Some tapping, polishing, and fitting later and it closes perfectly. I even close the bolt to about two inches of closing, place the charging handle in the stow away position (latch down) and release the bolt and it fully engages the chamber nice and tight. I confirmed this weekend that all was well when I fired 200 rounds through it without a single problem. I found www.cetmerifles.com that gave me a lot of info on my rifle, and got me pointed in the right direction. Apparently it is very uncommon for a "new" CETME to work right out of the box. But now mine does, mags and parts are dirt cheap right now, and I have no intentions of trading it any time soon. The price for mine was $325 off GunsAmerica, with a wood stock, so I think I did okay. Good luck. |
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thegundude |
Re: Cetme | ||
Quote: I must have been one of the lucky ones... Steve
Live Free Or Die. |
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Eric in OH |
Re: Cetme | ||
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Steve -
That's awesome! You had no issues at all with it? You are the first person I've heard of that had that. Good job. A buddy of mine really wants one and I'll correct my words to him that I now have heard of one being okay. Hopefully there are more. Thanks and have a good one. |
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WVchuck |
Re: Cetme | ||
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The only thing I had tyo do was scrape the gobs of paint out of the mag-well to get them to latch into position properly.
That, and clean all of the innards. Aside from those two things, mine has functioned great since day 1. |
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ThePitbullofLove |
Re: Cetme | ||
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Mine probably would have worked straight out to the box, but I figured I'd better get all the assorted metal shavings and other monkey detritus that Century left in the innards of my CETME out of the rifle first. I'd never seen a "new" manufactured gun with so much crap & crud in it, fresh out of the box...
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thegundude |
Re: Cetme | ||
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Yeah, I thoroughly cleaned mine before I shot it, but I do that with ALL guns whether "new" or not. I like to know the inside and outside before I pull the trigger on anything...
It was filthy when I got it, but I expected that from all that I had heard. My buddy and I each got one just about a week before SOG sold out of them. So I'm guessing that ours were among the better ones. Both seem to work just fine. My buddy hasn't shot his but once, just to make sure it works. He was very hesitant to get it (he already owns a 91 and 93) and complained of the stamped sheet metal. So I made him an offer. I told him that if he still didn't want it in two months time, I'd buy it from him + 5%. I went back to him in two months and he said "No way!". Two weeks after we got ours he noticed them selling for a $100 more than we paid... I've only shot that nasty (allegedly) .308 ammo from J&G but I never had any problems with it. Sometimes, even a blind squirell cops a nut... Steve
Live Free Or Die. |
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amd6547 |
Re: Cetme | ||
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My wood stock cetme, bought when they were $350, has worked fine. I cleaned it throughly when new, and I havn't had any of the problems some have reported. It works great with HK alloy mags, and I bought a bunch when Tapco had a rediculously low price sale on them.
As the other poster wrote, cetmerifles.com is the home of anything you need to know about these rifles. They are also a good bunch of guys who will help you solve any problems that might occur with your cetme. I am glad I bought mine. It is fun to shoot, and it is hard to believe how much they have gone up in value since I got it. |
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ptrthgr8 |
Re: Cetme | ||
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I bought mine a few years ago when SOG was selling them for $299. While I didn't have the problems with canted front sights or cocking tubes that so many folks had, I did have a zero bolt gap problem that wasn't fixed even after trying the +4 rollers. (It functioned fine, but the zero bolt gap would eventually have caused irreparable damage to the receiver.) Turns out the trunnion was too worn, so I had to have the barrel repressed/repinned. I ended up sending it over to Jayson at IGF (specializes in HKs and CETMEs) for the work and had him refinish everything in their black Envirotech finish (ala HK), and he installed one of his new original style muzzle brakes:
![]() ![]() I also had Bill Springfield (bspring) provide a NM trigger job. So, I spent $299 on the rifle, $300 or so with the smithy, $200 on the unissued armorer's kit (the only place to get the unissued stock sets at the time), and $35 on the trigger job. A bit over $800 altogether. It functions properly, everything is within specs, it looks a lot nicer than it originally did, it's a hoot to shoot, and I've got a ton of spare parts... all in all, not too bad for the $800 that's been invested. Still, it's the last Century built rifle I'll ever buy. I'm happy now, but Century's service is crap (I originally tried to have them fix the problem with the bolt gap, but they told me to pound sand) and I'm not willing to ever chance my money on something they've built. WECSOG, indeed. Cheers, ~ Greg ~ "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things. The decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which thinks that nothing is worth war is much worse." -- John Stuart Mill
Check out my photos! public.fotki.com/ptrthgr8/ ![]() Click here to adopt a US sniper today! |
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thegundude |
Re: Cetme | ||
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That's one nice looking CETME ya got there Greg...
Mine is still stock.... ![]() Steve
Live Free Or Die. |
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khardy55 |
Cetme won't fire????? | ||
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I have a Cetme 308, and I've searched many forums to get a solution to mines not firing. First I was using federal ammo (being that I work at WallyWorld) good price plus my discount. After bout 3 mags thru this gun and I admit I didn't clean after the last time, it wouldn't fire. I come and clean as good as I can, cleaning firing pin, spring, bolt head, down the chamber. Back at the range I still couldn't get it to fire, but Once! I've notice that when I load the mag with the gun already to chamber it doesn't go up all the way when AI let it fly. When I pull the trigger at first it just tapped the shell nothing else. By far Im no gunsmith but Im hesitant on giving up on my baby! I prefer over 223!!! 1. Does dry firing damage anything?
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ThePitbullofLove |
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Sounds like your headspace is too long. Might need to go to the 'smith.
Life is the crummiest book I ever read, there isn't a hook; Just a lot of cheap shots, pictures to shock, and characters an amateur would never dream up... |
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